Hay Budden Anvil Serial Numbers
I dug it out this morning and turns out it is an old Hay Budden, about 80 lbs. It needs a little work but I think I am going to fix it and use it for a while. The reason I was wondering about the book is I understand there is a section that tells the age of anvils by the serial number. My anvil's number is A34077. Oct 13, 1998 Anvil Identification. As I wrote you earlier I believed this anvil to be a Hay-Budden. Weight it is probably this lot number) Another sign of the Hay-Budden.
Supposedly the bases were serial numberd to match the anvils. Hay Budden is generaly regarded as one of the best anvils made. The size and condition of yours makes it rather desireable to the blacksmithing comunity. Value varies widely with location. Areas that settled early have lots of old anvils in barns and dont bring as much money.
I've got a pile of leftover bricks (including some firebrick), so I probably need to get a book on building a small cupola (next year - the forge and anvil will definitely use up most of my free time until we get some clear weather in the spring).:) Paul Stevens william thomas powers, 0:00 น. >My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the >required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the >University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any >that I didn't want to keep as reference books. Well the worst I had was when we got the rough draft of a proff's *new* textbook and had to pay a pretty penny for a photocopy of a real mess. No index, each chapter started with page 1, typos.
If the base is a Hay-Buddin it would probably make the tool much more collectible imo.none of the old HB advertisements (and there are quite a few) show, or mention, a cast base that I see •. Per the Richard Postman book 'Anvils in America' The company started making anvils around the late 1880's, and went out of business in 1926, selling 'well over 300,000' anvils.currently 'one of the most sought after anvils by both professional and hobby smiths'.' Rolls Royce of American Anvils' your serial # says that it's the old style original serial #system used before 1915. The anvil is from the 1913 to 1915 period.closer to 1913 or so since the # is quite high. The last old style serial # documented is 218321, and that anvil was purchased in 1914, but Postman puts a +/- 2 year guess around the old serial # system Advertisements from 1913 through 1923 show over 100,000 anvils sold alone during that period. If I had to guess I would put that anvil in the 1000.00 range or more to the right collector.
She's wrong, of course. I got the portable >forge on the same day.:) How long before you had red hot steel using them? >Paul Stevens Thomas Columbus, OH Paul Stevens, 0:00 น. William thomas powers wrote: > > >I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list > >of books for future additions to the personal library.
I did know enough to know that antique anvils are sought after. Any recommendations on how to properly clean it up without decreasing its value? Wire brush and oil? Pressure washer? It looks like it was rode hard and put away wet, but it is ~100 years old. Thanks for any information you can provide on this anvil. Hay-Burden Anvil, S/N 38469 (or 39469). 37,000 - 42,000 is listed as being 1898 In reality anvils are not considered *old* till they date earlier than 1800; then they get a premium for age.
I haven't taken the time (yet) to learn much about the history of the various anvil makers. I know that Mousehole Forge was in England, but that is the extent of my Mousehole knowledge. Is a Mousehole anvil a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about equal?
> > Any of you Brits know anything about it's Mfr? Sounds like a Brooks anvil. They are still available new from Centaur Forge.
Anybody want to let me email them some pics, and give me hay budden serial numbers opinion? He does note one of their anvil crew foremen was named Anderson, so perhaps A stands for one of his anvils. My guess would be about 325 pound. Are hay budden serial numbers serial number years posted anywhere on the internet?
She's wrong, of course. I got the portable > >forge on the same day.:) > > How long before you had red hot steel using them? > I still had to find coal (an adventure and learning experience in itself). I fired it up the day after I finally got some usable coal, got a few hours practice, then started tinkering with modifications to the forge. It doesn't really have a firepot, just a large grate over the air pipe (at least it has an ash dump). I had a lot of trouble controlling the size of the fire (the grate is domed upwards and the outer ring of holes is angled out, not up), and decided to experiment with clay.
I got the portable > >forge on the same day.:) > > How long before you had red hot steel using them? > I still had to find coal (an adventure and learning experience in itself).
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Fortunately, the department made sure the price was kept low (a little more than the cost of having Kinko's print them). From a technical standpoint, it was a good text (the prof who wrote it was a retired aeronautical engineer), but reading it was a new form of torture. > > >I'll probably look at removing the heavy > >gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from > >a semi at the junkyard.
I have been hay budden serial numbers Hay Budden stopped making anvils circa 1925, so they are all old.
I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but double the depth of the hearth. Then I can redo my clay modifications in steel, make some stronger legs. It doesn't seem to end.
Any heavy work thereafter would cause deformation. I suspect somebody milled the face to take out a bit of sway (thus removing the hard steel), then mushroomed the edge, then milled the side, then kept working. All that milling on the side is why the horn looks off-center.
But I would gladly accept a nice Moushole over a rough Peter Wright any day! >Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything >else on the day I got it.
The reason I was wondering about the book is I understand there is a section that tells the age of anvils by the serial number. My anvil's number is A34077.
Thanks, Peter, and all. My personal thinking is an anvil can be capped by using T1 plate and brass to bond the cap plate to base, although I've never tried it.
Further resources: • - a suggested program of study to learn hand forging • • Have an englishweight anvil? Try this nifty little tool from to find out how much it weighs in lbs. • Dictionary from for those hard to google terms.
The only question is how long it will be before I can set aside the money (without my wife noticing). > BTW there is a 66 page chapter on English Anvils with some information > on dating them. That would be helpful. I know this anvil is fairly old (it was passed down, through the family, to the person I got it from), but I don't know just how old it is. > >Is a Mousehole anvil > >a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about > >equal?
If you were to ubdden on eBay, might bring as much as the buyer likely has to pay freight to them. Serial number is 1602. B and 22 could be anything, such as hay budden serial numbers batch number, inspector mark or anvil crew identification. To download HAY BUDDEN SERIAL NUMBERS, click on the Download button I will eventually build a forge with a firepot, it's hard to get a deep budven with a rivet forge.
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(Yes it's sitting on my granite countertops, it's on a cutting board and gf isn't home!) Such a proud papa right now. Wanna get this baby out and working again!
Sounds like > >interesting reading. > > Its *THE* book on the subject and I doubt that many libraries will > be getting a copy. Its 552 pages, hardcover with lots of pictures > and a whole lot better reading than the $60+ textbooks I keep having to > get at the University. My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any that I didn't want to keep as reference books. I'll get a copy of 'Anvils in America'.
Reading Postman would tell you where they fit in the scheme of things - history and quality wise. Hay Budden is a well respected and sought after maker. The date mfg is 1913 for #207415. I dont know about the base.
Last night I reread the Hay-Budden section in Richard Postman's 'Anvils in America', (just published and by far the best work on the subject available!), and I think I found the clincher! 'There is one other diference in those anvils with the 'A' prefix. The number on the front of the waist under the horn is always a '4'. Somtimes the '4' is upside down.' This 'upside down `4' sure sounds like your 'T-Z' mark.
He does note one of their anvil crew foremen was named Anderson, so perhaps A stands for one of his anvils. My guess would be about 325 pound. Are hay budden serial numbers serial number years posted anywhere on the internet? From your photo, it appears to be in excellent condition. Large enough to be solid mass busden the work, let still light mumbers to cover around when needed.
I left about a 2' gap where the ends of the sheet metal came together and cut a 'mousehole' opposite the gap to allow long pieces to poke through. Its blown by a small, old vacuum cleaner---sort of like a dustbuster but from the '50's got it at the fleamarket for $3 without the bag--just a round aluminium pipe, I use a dimmer switch to control the speed---gotta love those universal motors!--al in all I figure I have less than $10 in the forge and it used no special tools to build, (ie: no welder was needed).
Fred Holder wrote: > > Paul, > > You have to buy Richard Postman's, Anvils in America, directly from him. As far > as I know, he hasn't placed it with any company for sale. Richard's Address is: > > Richard Postman > 10 Fischer Court > Berrian Springs, MI 49103 > TEL: (616) 471-5426 Thanks for the address. > >Live home 3d pro. Price for the book is $60.00 plus $5.00 shipping and handling.
Areas that settled early have lots of old anvils in barns and dont bring as much money. Places like Oklahoma that settled in the twilight of the blacksmithing eara have very few anvils and they bring a good price. This might help: PaulPaul Thanks for the link - some interesting stuff in there. I was surprised to see Mousehole Forge anvils in America. I grew up within half a mile of the Mousehole in Rivelin Valley, Sheffield and although the interesting activity had long since ceased, it took me back to my childhood. I think a firm made wooden furniture frames there when I was a boy in the sixties. This is apparently the gravestone of one of the family It had never occurred to me before why the nearest pub at the bottom of Wood Lane is called the Anvil!
From your photo, it appears to be in excellent condition. Large enough to be solid mass busden the work, let still light mumbers to cover around when needed.
I dug it out this morning and turns out it is an old Hay Budden, about 80 lbs. It needs a little work but I think I am going to fix it and use it for a while.
• Any NSFW posts will be reviewed by the mods and may be removed based on our judgement of the value of the content. Further resources: • - a suggested program of study to learn hand forging • • Have an englishweight anvil? Try this nifty little tool from to find out how much it weighs in lbs. • Dictionary from for those hard to google terms. • ABANAs list of in North America • Appalachian Blacksmiths Association list of in the US Books: • • • • (Lots of info about Metallurgy) Projects • • • Project ideas • Some very good tutorials Our friends: • • • • • • • • • •.
>Paul Stevens Thomas Columbus, OH Paul Stevens, 0:00 น. William thomas powers wrote: > > >I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list > >of books for future additions to the personal library.
> Last night I reread the Hay-Budden section in Richard Postman's > 'Anvils in America', (just published and by far the best work on the > subject available!), and I think I found the clincher! (snip) I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list of books for future additions to the personal library. Sounds like interesting reading. > BTW although two british firms Mousehole and Peter Wright used the > old hundredweight system of marking, most of the american firms did > not. They used a simple weight stamp.
Hay Budden Anvil Serial Numbers
I totally forgot that I already had an old round horn anvil in the barn. I dug it out this morning and turns out it is an old Hay Budden, about 80 lbs. It needs a little work but I think I am going to fix it and use it for a while. The reason I was wondering about the book is I understand there is a section that tells the age of anvils by the serial number. My anvil's number is A34077.
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Just try to be reasonably civil. Serial number is: 204558. Posted on Tuesday, May 03, hay budden serial numbers - 11:52 pm: Wow, I finally got it to allow me to reply again. I did numberrs image search on Hay budden serial numbers and did not find any with as sharply curved a horn as this one.
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Martha is pimping anvils now?? Just to let hay budden serial numbers fellas know. Can someone help steer me to some groups in California I can check with? I've got pics to email if anyone is interested to see what I am talking about. Just enjoy and use it as is.
It fixed most of my problems, but the depression seems to be too shallow (having trouble getting the fire deep enough). Before I could try any more clay modifications, we got a few days of rain (I don't have a hood and flue yet, so I work outside), then I suddenly had to redo some of the plumbing in my parents house (I'm still trying to finish the plumbing in my house), then work picked up. I am going to find time to work on it later this week (I need a break from the insanity) and hope to fire it up again this weekend. When I get the bugs worked out, I'll probably look at removing the heavy gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from a semi at the junkyard.
Are you sure there's no other number? A five-digit H-B starting with a 4 (looks like a 4 to me) dates to around 1898-1899. If it's a 1 it's 1894-1895. That would put it in the early range where it would be a wrought iron body with a steel top plate. After about 1908 they switched to a steel top half. If that date it correct, it would explain the mushrooming: It looks like the top of the face has been milled off by about 1/4 to 3/16 inch, which would remove the hardened steel.
>Following that is '157' a bit of a space, and then 'A86799' I have >not found any other legible markings. All the characters are about >1/2' tall. The anvil has a seam visible at the waist, and a fine line >visible where the top plate is attached.
Too learn about anvils then I suggest 'Anvils in America' by Richard Postman. I would say the definite work: large hi-quality printed format, very well illustrated and not at all cheep. Not a price guide and probably not worth the cost just too sell one item. There are 40 pages on HayBudden. Over 500 pages in all.
I sometimes come off as an hay budden serial numbers snob,' sorry. Here is my anvil and one of my leg vises. Thanks, Peter, and all. My personal thinking is an anvil can be capped by using T1 plate and brass to bond the cap plate to base, although I've never tried it. If you were to ubdden on eBay, might bring as much as the buyer likely has to pay freight to them. Serial number is 1602. B and 22 could be anything, such as hay budden serial numbers batch number, inspector mark or anvil crew identification.
This little guy(for an anvil anyhow) will be perfect for my small setup right now. I'll sti keep and eye out for something bigger but for now i am so damn happy it's crazy! This old girl is going to be put back to work!
I assume Anvils in America has that information available. If someone has a copy that they could look up that information, that would be great. I will post pictures of my anvil as soon as I remove some of the rust. Thanks in advance! That makes sense to me, guys. I took photos of the anvil, and can now make out the serial number. It is either 38469 or 39469.
> BTW there is a 66 page chapter on English Anvils with some information > on dating them. That would be helpful. I know this anvil is fairly old (it was passed down, through the family, to the person I got it from), but I don't know just how old it is.
What other measurements would be helpful in confirming an identification (or narrowing down the age)? I haven't taken the time (yet) to learn much about the history of the various anvil makers. I know that Mousehole Forge was in England, but that is the extent of my Mousehole knowledge. Is a Mousehole anvil a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about equal? Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything else on the day I got it.
The reason 'non-modern' anvils are sought after is they are often well made compared to many 'Anvil Shaped Objects' for sale in recent times. They are also much cheaper than the 'good' modern anvils usually at least 1/2 the price of the same size 'good' modern one. Location pays a part too; anvils where I live now are 50-100% higher priced than where I used to live. Removal of loose rust and oiling/waxing/linseed oiling. Is generally considered OK PAINTING is NOT---As painting is sometimes used to hide flaws I discount the price of a painted anvil to reflect the risk.
It has both a hardie and >pritchel hole also. It has a nice ring to it when struck.
My gut feeling is it not origional. Maybe it is time I re-read the book myself. I see real world prices all over the map on anvils. Thanks, Peter, and all.:cheers: There is a lot of good info on those sites. Prices are all over the map:willy_nilly::willy_nilly: The base seems to be unique(rare?). I haven't found anything like it.yet:( Ted •. I have a HAY-BUDDEN anvil with a base that I have not been able to find any information on.