Hyundai Genesis Coupe Manual Transmission Fluid

04.03.2019

3700 mi Vibration in drive train returned. Field service engineer had tires balanced and transmission spacers added. After no change, field engineer stated vibration in drivetrain is normal for vehicle and no additional repairs will be performed. 1200 mi Vibrations felt at highway speeds. Inconsistent and seen in mirror, felt in pedals, and consistent shake while driving. 2000 mi Same issue as before - vibrations and rattling throughout vehicle. Vibrations and rattling throughout vehicle.

So I'm going to be changing my transmission fluid of my 5 speed manual transmission accent. I'm thinking of using Redline MT-85 75W85, and wanted to. Overall I think since it's the same price as the hyundai fluid I would recommend it, but don't expect a drastic difference. 2008 Accent 3 door 5 sp 2010 Genesis Coupe 2L Track 6 sp man. A Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8 Transmission Fluid Change costs between $76 and $89 on average. Get a free detailed estimate for a repair in your area.

Remove oil filler plug (A): Some oil may drip out but not much will. Prepare a oil pan below the oil drain plug to catch the oil. Remove drain plug.

GENESIS COUPE (BK) > 2010 > G 3.8. Manual Transmission System > Manual Transmission System > Manual Transmission. Drain the transmission fluid by removing the. 1G Hyundai Genesis Sedan Hyundai Genesis Coupe Hyundai Equus 2G Hyundai Genesis Sedan Genesis G70 Genesis G80. The price of the LifeGuard6 fluid is a LOT cheaper than the Hyundai fluid, which is about $75. I have a 2012 3.8L genesis with the new Hyundai-built 8 speed transmission. The manual mentions inspecting the automatic.

That sure is something isn't it. Oh, and I've done in the past what zero_gravity suggested. A long hose clamped to a small funnel works great for tranny fills, mine was more like 3 feet.

I have no warranty as both my Genesis cars are salvage.

Told me it may be the tires. Took car to another dealer for harmonic vibration in drive train. New dealer replaced drive shaft and this greatly improved the issue. Problem now returning with new bearing seizing noise. Harmonic vibration returned after repair that included a new drive shaft. Dealer performed multiple tests and concluded the second drive shaft was the issue. Replaced with a third new drive shaft assembly.

My observations are that automatic transmission maintenance is often neglected or ignored completely. In my opinion, auto transmissions are the weakest element in modern drivetrains. This is not to say they are not reliable for say 100,000 miles. But a neglected transmission will not have nearly the life of the motor.

This is not to say they are not reliable for say 100,000 miles. But a neglected transmission will not have nearly the life of the motor. I change transmission fluid at 50K mile intervals. It isn't cheap.

People on the forums have used a variety of Redline fluids. The closest to OEM spec would be MT-85 or MTL, but whether OEM spec gives the best results is debated on the forums. I did a flush a few weeks ago using the supposedly OEM Pentosin MTF2 fluid. Only the fluid that came out looked and smelled nothing like the Pentosin.

Costs much less. My buddy with a 2005 XJR (Supercharged) that uses the exact same transmission, did a pump and dump with the original Jag/ZF Fluid, and used the Mobil-1 Full Synthetic ATF. Transmission shifts great, and is very happy with it. (He really did three pump and dumps, all in a row, to get rid of most of the original fluid). He made sure that after the last pump and dump, he checked the temperature of the fluid when he checked the fluid level, to make sure it was not underfilled or overfilled. If I were to buy either a used Genesis 4.6 or a used Jag XJ, I would change out the fluid with the Mobil-1 Full Synthetic ATF Fluid. BTW, I understand the guys in the BMW and Mercedes Forums that use the exact same 6HF26 Transmission say the same thing about using Mobil-1.

The pump made the job a lot easier and was worth every penny I spent on it. It's actually less expensive than some lesser quality pumps out there. You'll need access to a lift or 4 jack stands. The car needs to be level to gauge the proper fill amount.

22320 mi C $800 Replaced flywheel 6000 mi THE CAR WOULD HUM OR BUZZ BETWEEN 20-30MPH(USAUALLY IN 2ND OR 3RD GEAR), AND NOISE COMING FROM REAR. I WAS TOLD THAT IT WAS A BROKEN SPACER-PINON BEARING.

If your transmission fluid or filter gets clogged, you may notice the engine revving when you're not accelerating the vehicle — this is called. If you notice this, take your car in for maintenance immediately, as the damage will only get worse.

It stops dealers from saying BS like 'oH, I see you installed a new radio, I'm sorry, we can't fix your engine under warranty anymore' or 'Oh, you used a non-factory oil? Now you have no engine warranty' - it doesn't work that way. If you can prove that the aftermarket parts you use (including fluids) meet the factory spec, the onus is on the dealership to PROVE that your aftermarket part caused the damage. The reason Hyundai can still get away with 'Use our fluid at $75/qt, rather than the one that's $35/qt' is because everyone just 'oh ok's' them rather than pushing the issue. I just got off the phone with Valvoline after reading their spec sheet on the Maxlife full synthetic transmission fluid: There is not a mention of meeting the 1375.4 spec on the sheet but it says to call because they meet many more than listed.

Don't get me wrong. Changing it is a good idea, but the owners manual does not say anything about changing before the 100K mark. As I've said before, the Hyundai ATF for the ZF Transmission costs about $75 a liter or quart. Don't know how much the Hyundai ATF for the Aisin Transmission costs. In navigating through the site mentioned in earlier posts, I see that their ATF says right on the bottle 'ZF - Lifeguard Fluid' and that it is made just for ZF Transmissions. The ZF-Lifeguard fluid for the ZF 6HP26 transmission is Lifeguard6 fluid, ZF part number S671 090 255 01 and is for ZF transmissions used in Audi, Bentley BMW, Jaguar, Land Rover, Maserati (all these have a manufacturer part number assigned) and most of all, Hyundai (oil no. (They also have a ZF-Lifeguard8 listed for those cars with the ZF 8 Speed Transmissions).

78000 mi US $1500 Clutch master and slave cylinder both faulty and had to be replaced. 3000 mi US $85 Manual transmission grinds during some 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd gear shifts. Replaced trans. Oil with Redline synthetic oil. 14000 mi US $60 Drained manual transmission oil because of occasional grinding in shifts from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd.

Remove the ground wire by removing the bolt connecting it to transmission. Disconnect the backup lamp switch connector and the CKP Sensor (A) by removing a 10mm bolt. Remove the clutch hose from the C.S.C assembly.

It stops dealers from saying BS like 'oH, I see you installed a new radio, I'm sorry, we can't fix your engine under warranty anymore' or 'Oh, you used a non-factory oil? Now you have no engine warranty' - it doesn't work that way. If you can prove that the aftermarket parts you use (including fluids) meet the factory spec, the onus is on the dealership to PROVE that your aftermarket part caused the damage. The reason Hyundai can still get away with 'Use our fluid at $75/qt, rather than the one that's $35/qt' is because everyone just 'oh ok's' them rather than pushing the issue. The book says 'inspected' at the 36K mark. (I think its at the 36K mark).

That sure is something isn't it. Oh, and I've done in the past what zero_gravity suggested. A long hose clamped to a small funnel works great for tranny fills, mine was more like 3 feet.

People on the forums have used a variety of Redline fluids. The closest to OEM spec would be MT-85 or MTL, but whether OEM spec gives the best results is debated on the forums. I did a flush a few weeks ago using the supposedly OEM Pentosin MTF2 fluid. Only the fluid that came out looked and smelled nothing like the Pentosin.

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If anyone does buy the LifeGuard6 Fluid, make sure that somewhere on the bottle, it states that it meets the M-1375.4 spec that Hyundai and ZF call for, and I would save the empty bottles, just in case there is ever a transmission problem while under warranty. To those of you who buy a Previous Owned (re; Used) Genesis 4.6, the transmission warranty is much less. (Can't remember how much, but somewhere around 60k miles). In that case, just use Mobil-1 ATF in the transmission. Costs much less. My buddy with a 2005 XJR (Supercharged) that uses the exact same transmission, did a pump and dump with the original Jag/ZF Fluid, and used the Mobil-1 Full Synthetic ATF. Transmission shifts great, and is very happy with it.

If your dealer says you MUST change it before the 100K mark, they are trying to take advantage of you. Don't get me wrong.

Bracket to Chassis Remove the four mounting bolts on the bottom of the transmission. Tightening Torque: 34 lb-ft. Remove the starter motor bolts. Tightening Torque: 39.8 lb-ft. Remove the top transmission bolt. These may be hard to reach.

41000 mi US $1000 Replaced clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder 85100 mi US $700 Replace clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, slave cylinder, bleed clutch with 2013 Hyundai genesis coupe parts. Previous installed parts incompatible, though sold as a part that would fit. Technically it did not fail. But suffered from incomplete release since first installed. It would creep forward or backward when in 1st or reverse.

The flushing process does not require the pan to be removed or the filter to be changed, so the diagnostic and preventive benefits of seeing what’s in the pan and changing the filter are lost. Additionally, many vehicle manufacturers do not recommend or require include a transmission flush as part of their vehicles’ recommended maintenance schedule. So why do it?

I change transmission fluid at 50K mile intervals. It isn't cheap. The 4.6 liter Genesis has a variant of the German ZF 6HP26 transmission. This transmission was first used in 2001 by BMW in their 7 series, and by Audi in 2003 in their A8.

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